Eabha Higgins

Ile d’Yeu, Overnight Anchorage at Le Vieux Chateau, Ile d’Yeu- Noirmoutier, Noirmoutier-Pornichet (60NM) Having spent a lovely day circling the island by bike, we scouted out a few interesting anchorages on the south (Cote Sauvage) coast of Ile d’Yeu. One in particular had caught our eye, Le Vieux Chateau. Straight out of Game of Thrones, built in the 15th century, Le Vieux Chateau is partially in ruins, but dramatic in the extreme. Perched on a rock, with cliffs all around, we couldn’t have found a more dramatic backdrop for our anchorage. The approach to the little bay was straightforward and we anchored midway between a rocky reef (Les Ours) and some invisible rocks that were marked on the chart and soon revealed themselves. What a great place to explore, both on foot and on the Stand Up Paddles. The next morning we moved on to another beautiful anchorage off a sandy beach (Plage des Soux) for the day and then returned to Port Joinville, we were at this stage rafted 5 out as the marina was very busy so we were happy to leave the next day. We had a very sunny sail over mirror flat water. There were some pilotage challenges, especially as there was a restricted zone where a a ship was laying an electrical cable between Ile d’Yeu and Noirmoutier and yachts had to declare themselves before crossing. As before, the voice on the radio for the Securite was Irish. As we approached l’Herbaudiere, we noticed a beautiful little island called Ile de Pilier, with 1 lighthouse and an old semaphore station. We dropped anchor there and used the SUP to get ashore for a wander. The island was stunning with beautiful beaches and crystal clear water. One hike, swim and paddle later, we headed for l’Herbaudiere, which is the only deep water harbour in Noirmoutier. For once the Capitainerie staff were on hand to guide us in, but we were rafted 4 boats out as the Noirmoutier Classic Regatta was on and the harbour was full with beautiful up classic racing yachts, including Eric Tabarly’s yachts Pen Duick I, II and V. We decided to stay 2 days so that we could explore the place by bike the next day. Cycling around Noirmoutier was really fun and once the tide came back in the beaches were great. It was so hot that the swim was essential! The main town, Noirmoutier en Ile was very pretty and bustling, but looking at the drying port, I was glad we hadn’t tried to navigate it as it was a total mudfest. The next morning at 9am, after a visit to the showers and the Boulangerie, the raft broke up, we said goodbye to our neighbours and we were off, beating out of Noirmoutier in a very brisk, very cold northwesterly. It was a bit of a thrill to be sailing out amongst the Noirmoutier Classic fleet. The wind built and built and by the time we got to our planned lunchtime anchorage, the islet of Les Evens, it was too windy to swim. By the time we approached Pornichet Marina the wind was topping 25kn and climbing so manoeuvring within the marina was very tough. We got alongside and got a rope on, but it took another 20min to get Sipadan successfully secured in her berth, where she will remain, until I return with the delivery crew to sail her back to Dungarvan. So sad to finish the family holiday, but looking forward to some oceanic passages!

We were planning a leisurely morning in La Flotte and to meet friends for. Dungarvan for brunch until I looked at the depth under the boat and the projected drop in the tide and decided to make a sharp exit. The winds were relatively light and as in Ireland at the moment were persistently NW so there was a lot of motoring upwind and the cold weather gear came out of the bag, at least, the jackets. We were headed for Bourgenay but en route I noticed that Copperwynd, a Cork boat owned by a colleague was moored at Quai Garnier at Les Sables d’Olonne. A quick phone call later, dinner reservations were made and we adjusted course to revisit Les Sables for the night. We had a lovely meal and back on Copperwynd the guitars came out and a late night was had, with lots of craic. The next morning we left mid morning, making for Ile d’Yeu again. Again NW winds made it very difficult to get a line on the island and ultimately a seasick wife meant that the headsail came in and we motored into Port Joinville. The approach was tricky this time, as the marina was crowded and we had to raft, necessitating a retreat to get the lines and fenders onto the other side and reverse in. My dodger was parting at the seams and every time I went on deck I was making it worse by using it as a handhold. Some surgical suturing was required. Laundry also had to be done and we needed a few bits and bobs at the chandlery so Port Joinville as before, ticked all of these boxes. The next day was forecast to climb from 19 degrees to 30 degrees so we decided to stay put for a few days to get jobs done and then to cycle around the island. Post Script: One thing I had begun to notice here was a few boats with Irish flags, sailed by English people, who were availing of the freedom to travel afforded by an Irish passport/ boat registration. In Port Joinville there were 2 northern Irish boats with GB flags but flying Irish tricolours on the port side, presumably indicating that they had Irish passports, again for the same reason. Vivre Le Brexit!j