L’Herbaudiere - Les Evens - Pornichet

Gareth Higgins

Ile d’Yeu, Overnight Anchorage at Le Vieux Chateau, Ile d’Yeu- Noirmoutier, Noirmoutier-Pornichet (60NM) Having spent a lovely day circling the island by bike, we scouted out a few interesting anchorages on the south (Cote Sauvage) coast of Ile d’Yeu. One in particular had caught our eye, Le Vieux Chateau. Straight out of Game of Thrones, built in the 15th century, Le Vieux Chateau is partially in ruins, but dramatic in the extreme. Perched on a rock, with cliffs all around, we couldn’t have found a more dramatic backdrop for our anchorage. The approach to the little bay was straightforward and we anchored midway between a rocky reef (Les Ours) and some invisible rocks that were marked on the chart and soon revealed themselves. What a great place to explore, both on foot and on the Stand Up Paddles. The next morning we moved on to another beautiful anchorage off a sandy beach (Plage des Soux) for the day and then returned to Port Joinville, we were at this stage rafted 5 out as the marina was very busy so we were happy to leave the next day. We had a very sunny sail over mirror flat water. There were some pilotage challenges, especially as there was a restricted zone where a a ship was laying an electrical cable between Ile d’Yeu and Noirmoutier and yachts had to declare themselves before crossing. As before, the voice on the radio for the Securite was Irish. As we approached l’Herbaudiere, we noticed a beautiful little island called Ile de Pilier, with 1 lighthouse and an old semaphore station. We dropped anchor there and used the SUP to get ashore for a wander. The island was stunning with beautiful beaches and crystal clear water. One hike, swim and paddle later, we headed for l’Herbaudiere, which is the only deep water harbour in Noirmoutier. For once the Capitainerie staff were on hand to guide us in, but we were rafted 4 boats out as the Noirmoutier Classic Regatta was on and the harbour was full with beautiful up classic racing yachts, including Eric Tabarly’s yachts Pen Duick I, II and V. We decided to stay 2 days so that we could explore the place by bike the next day. Cycling around Noirmoutier was really fun and once the tide came back in the beaches were great. It was so hot that the swim was essential! The main town, Noirmoutier en Ile was very pretty and bustling, but looking at the drying port, I was glad we hadn’t tried to navigate it as it was a total mudfest. The next morning at 9am, after a visit to the showers and the Boulangerie, the raft broke up, we said goodbye to our neighbours and we were off, beating out of Noirmoutier in a very brisk, very cold northwesterly. It was a bit of a thrill to be sailing out amongst the Noirmoutier Classic fleet. The wind built and built and by the time we got to our planned lunchtime anchorage, the islet of Les Evens, it was too windy to swim. By the time we approached Pornichet Marina the wind was topping 25kn and climbing so manoeuvring within the marina was very tough. We got alongside and got a rope on, but it took another 20min to get Sipadan successfully secured in her berth, where she will remain, until I return with the delivery crew to sail her back to Dungarvan. So sad to finish the family holiday, but looking forward to some oceanic passages!