LIVE
Cruising slowly
The travels of Naxos
1,257
NM
Total Distance
84
Days
Time at Sea
ICC
The RYAGMDSS Short Range Certificate
The RYAShorebased Coastal Skipper & YM Offshore
The RYAI rested in the morning after not sleeping that well due to the katabatics the night before and got the boat ready to leave to time the wind appearing to the south of Kastos. I left at one. I had the engine on briefly to get the anchor off but quickly switched it off and thought about tracking between the island a where there was some wind. I started but on the basis the wind was blowing straight down the channel, it was about 5 miles before I could make the turn and the fact that my speed on the first couple of tacks was 3 knots, I thought I would go to the east of Kastos where I could see there was no wind and run the engine with the new thicker oil. the engine ran in what looked like a similar way to me. there were no warning lights as after 20 minutes of motor limb we hit the wind. I had a great sail with between 10 and 17 knots of the beam all the way. there was a bit of a beam sea but nothing much. As I started turning away from the wind the wind speed dropped away and on the last leg I was going 2.5-3 knots where previously I was running at between 5 and 6. I sailed almost all the way to the entrance to the anchorage but at that point the wind wasn't strong enough to give me enough drive through the swell so I turned the engine on..I motored into the anchorage and dropped the anchor as normal..Naxos refused to weather cock as she does sometimes so I turned the engine off and started tidying up. only when all the boats were pointing in the same direction did I restart the engine and went into reverse. the chain didn't bite immediately but eventually caught and I dug it in. the anchorage seems a little weird as the wind is coming from.one direction, the swell from another, and the boats are all pointing in different directions none of which is either into the wind or the swell or a point in between. there is some gentle swell but it is certainly easing and after the lack of sleep last night, I fancy an early night
2
21.7
NM
6h 8m
Kálamos to Achelóos Potamós, Greece
I left the calm of Vliho at just gone 11am..there was about 2 knots of wind in the anchorage so no chance of sailing out. I motored to just beyond the chicane and got the mainsail up immediately, Meganisi 2 the ferry coming in as I was doing so which meant I had to get out the way. I saw a boat sailing ahead of me and could follow his course out. I saw him run out of wind so tacked back and spent way too long messing about among the islands. Eventually I turned the engine on and motored for half an hour during which I checked the oil pressure frequently. as the oil was still warm by the time the half hour was up, the pressure light had begun to flicker at 1,500 revs. I increased the revs a bit (to 1,600) and the pressure came up a bit but then dropped back within 5 or 10 minutes to the warning light flickering again. fortunately by then I was in some steady pressure and sailed for a couple of hours across the water towards Kalamos. I made lunch on the way and although it was a beam sea it was quite pleasant. when I entered the channel between the island and the mainland I was tempted by the calm looking anchorage near the town that would have allowed me to do some shopping but as it was still fairly early (before 6pm from memory) I carried on. the wind and waves were very confused so I had to turn the engine on again for about thirty seconds to find some steady pressure. I then tacked around the top of the island and sailed towards Mirtia Beach. I got within about half a mile and the wind died so I turned the engine on and motored in. actually there was still a little wind (it had stopped temporarily) but the swell was substantial so even though I may have been able to sail a bit further it would have been slow progress. Navionics shows a rock in the anchorage which I avoided although I think it is someway underwater and I dropped the hook which grabbed first time. I set the anchor and sat down shattered. unfortunately the swell is still substantial some hours later but I am hopeful that it will die down as the wind drops. I tidied up and did the oil change so let's see what happens when the engine starts up tomorrow
2
23.1
NM
7h 29m
Yénion to Kálamos, Greece
I left at 11:15 when there were about 5-8 knots in the anchorage. I turned the engine on for safety but as soon as the anchor was up I sailed away. there was some tacking but the north east corner of the bay /sea area had no wind. I turned the engine on for about three minutes to motor to get to some wind and then turned the engine off againm the wind instantly died..I turned the engine on for another three minutes into better pressure and for a while was close hauled in about 8-9 knots apparent towards Nydri. Just before the Lefkas channel the wind died again and there was another three minutes of engine and then the Lefkas channel wind was closed. I dropped the mainsail as the wind seemed to be behind me but when the Lefkas wind arrived it was on rh beam and then forwards of the beam. I was worried about crabbing but the boat tracked well. the winds were up to 21 knots apparent Nd I reefed the genoa appropriately..I was able to use the self tailing winch as I was on a starboard tack. I sailed in Nydri and was going to sail up the chicane but the wind was variable and there was an enormous cat coming at me so I turned on the engine. I motored into the bay, looked around for a few minutes and then dropped the hook in about 7m. initially I put out about 30m of chain and the anchor dug in. I added another 10m when I put the snubber on.
1
12
NM
6h 36m
Pogoniá to Vlikhón, Greece
I left Vliho at almost exactly 1pm. I had to drive over the anchor three or four times to get it out. I motored out of the bay and through the chicane, and then got the genoa up and turned off the engine. the winds were extremely flukey and eventually I ended up having to pass the first of the islands on my port side. I tried several times to get the mainsail up but failed as the wind kept changing direction and the sail got caught in the rigging etcm Eventually in the lee of one of the islands I got the sail up double reefed and then sat there waiting for the wind to come I had occasional puffs from the starboard side but I knew when I cleared the island on my port side the wind would come from there, ie down the Lefkas channel. After what seemed an age I made it into the wind and had 20-23 knots just forward of the beam and a little bit of a sea. Rather than try to pinch too much in those conditions, I sailed pretty much straight across pinching when the wind and waves died down which I expected them to. once I reached the other side, I tacked forwards and back with lots of local conditions affecting the wind, eg, there was more wind near land and the directions were slightly different also. When the winds were down to mainly 12 - 14 knots I shook the reefs out of the mainsail and the Genoa, although as the wind fluctuated I did reef the genoa appropriately. I did have a full Genoa and double reefed main in 20 knots apparent going upwind and the boat didn't feel over canvassed. the most flukey winds were right up at the north coast where I expected to make a tack to take me into the anchorage but got circular winds for a bit. there did seem to be quite a lot of wind coming from the anchorage itself but when I reached about half a mile from MollyMoo I turned the engine on and motored in. the anchor grabbed first time (in sand I hope but can't be sure) and I put out 40m in about 8m. The wind is still blowing 10-15 knots at 11pm.
1
20.8
NM
6h 29m
Yénion to Pogoniá, Greece
I slipped the lines at around midday as the was a little breeze blowing in the bay. it was coming from the opposite side to the one I expected but I motored out of the dog leg and into the inland sea and immediately got the sails up. there was about 6 knots of wind on the starboard beam and it was a gentle sail to the Meganisi Strait. A few hundred yards from the start the wind went more aft and I took down the mainsail to let the genoa do it's job. A few minutes later the wind died completely. The boat sat in 0 knots for about 15-20 minutes and then a breeze spring up that allowed me to sail into the strait where I go see other boats sailing - mainly tacking up. out of the channel. the wind solidified and there was up to about 10 knots apparent directly behind Naxos, who was doing about 4 knots of boat speed. the wind died down a bit as we reached Nydri and I started to sail through the chicane with about 6 knots on the beam and a reefed genoa. unfortunately the wind dropped to 2 knots and I decided it wasn't enough to be safe so I turned the engine on, motored into the bay and dropped the anchor in 7m. All in all,.a nice sail
9.1
NM
3h 58m
Sývota to Yénion, Greece
Winds were light on leaving Vliho. I got the sails up just beyond a Tranquil Bay and then sailed towards Skorpios (?) At the top of the island the wind died and I motored a few hundred yards and sailed again, crossing the gap between the islands in very flukey and light winds. I had to motor again into the Meganisi Strait and then sailed a bit again and then as I was.pushing for the corner to tack the wind died again. Frustrated I motored past the little island and then tacked up the channel to the head of the gap when the waves built and the wind dropped off. I then had to motor the rest of the waym When I got close to the Sivota channel I went to drop the main but was confronted with the riding turn I noticed when hoisted it. I got a screwdriver and banged the turn out with the mole grips with a knife handy just in case and then motored into the bay. I was given a decent enough berth and probably would have got into it, but was given a push from the very helpful marinero and tied up. not too many problems with the oil pressure today which was good..in idle the pressure warning didn't seem to come on at all. Hopefully on the way back it will be sailing all the way and not 40/60 motoring / sailing even though the speeds and therefore the distances were the other way round at least
13.4
NM
4h 50m
Yénion to Sývota, Greece
The idea was to have a little day sail and return to Vliho. I motored out of the bay and just beyond Tranquil Bay there was some wind coming from just off the starboard bow. I got the sails up and bore away a bit and turned the engine off. the wind was very flukey and I spent about half an hour tacking backwards and forwards to find enough pressure to get into the inland sea proper. eventually I found something and thought I was away off towards Meganisi, but as I reached the top of one of the smaller islands, the wind died. Frustrated, I turned the engine on for about 5 minutes as I motored to some more pressure. I sailed for another ten minutes or so..instead of motoring again, I just brought the genoa in and waited for the wind. at last enough came to allow me to sail towards Agios Nikolaus. I sailed inside the island and then tacked back to sail back towards Vliho. Not far from the island the wind died again. I waited but this time no wind came. I motored towards Meganisi where I could see some wind on the water and sailed for another little bit before the wind disappeared completely again. I motored towards the Meganisi Strait getting the mainsail down and only when we reached the strait itself did some wind appear. it was the strongest wind all day - I saw 9 knots. I sailed under genoa to the beginning of Tranquil Bay where the wind died and then motored to anchor in the bay. The oil pressure light came on during normal motoring but only because the oil was still warm and liquid I think. I could generally make it disappear by increasing the revs a little.
1
14.4
NM
6h 44m
Yénion, Greece
I spent an uncomfortable and tiring night in Vathy approximately 100 feet from the 2m contour line and about 110 from the harbour wall and significant. damage. there were plenty of wind waves and near constant 29 knot winds until about midnight when they died off. I went to bed and got some sleep. I woke at 6am.unbelievably to more wind and waves. I looked out the port light and yes indeed the waves had started, effectively pushing the boat onto the wall when I got the anchor up. rather than wait I got ready quickly and like a small army of other boats left the anchorage. The chain did need driving over significantly to get up. As I motored out the anchorage I was getting gusts of 18 knots. I set the sails but as soon as I was in the bay just outside the wind died completely. I flopped about a bit and then motored for 10 minutes and flipped about some some more. Eventually a found occasional puffs coming from the wrong direction (from more or less South) and sat and motored in those for a bit. As I neared the entrance to the bay I could see the wind in the water just beyond so I motored to it and the wind was North and I was seeing 14-17 knots. I put two reefs in the mainsail but by the time this was done the wind had dropped down to around 12 knots. I guess the higher speeds were an acceleration around the land. After a bit I shook the reeds out. I sailed slowly but very happily towards the eastern tip of Meganisi but again lost the wind completely near Atokos. there was no need for the engine as there was plenty of room and no boats close by and I knew the wind would I arrive. I tacked backwards and forwards a bit to keep the sails fullish even if I wasn't moving and when the wind came back it was around 8-12 knots on the beam and I just pottered up to Meganisi and then up past the island at about 3 knots in light winds. I made some lunch and carried in listening to Angels by Marion Keyes on Audible. All very civilised. When I got to the top of the island the wind which had been dropping off completely went. I sat there vainly waiting for something to happen but it didn't so I had to motor for a bit looking for wind. I could see boats sailing in the strait on the West side of the island so I headed that way stopping the engine every time I saw any wind. Eventually just off Skorpios I had to turn the engine on and I motored in. Meganisi 2 came up behind me so I slowed down to allow her to pass but other than that and someone dropping their anchor in the middle of the chicane as they were motoring towards me, the motor was uneventful. I saw MollyMoo, headed in broadly the same direction, found a spot in 7m and set the anchor putting out 30m (marked) plus another few metres for the snubber.
1
27.9
NM
9h 6m
Itháki to Yénion, Greece
Molly Moo left at about 9:30 and I followed at just after 10. The anchor needed some firm motoring to get it out of the mud after the bad weather but once up I gently motored through the chicane. a Dutch boat came on from the left and has not even seen me in Tranquil Bay. I had to go into reverse to avoid hitting them and then I followed them out and turned right to head for Ithaca. I started sailing straightaway but the various attempts I made along the stretch before exiting the Meganisi Strait were all short lived as the wind was flukey and light. When I actually entered the strait itself it was a horrible motor into the wind. There was no way I could tack as although the true wind was only say 10-12 knots, there were wind waves from beyond the strait and lots and lots and lots of boats most of them not considering anyone else. This applies equally to the large superyacht going at 20+ knots as it does to the little speedboats going past unnecessarily closely. Eventually I exited the strait and I had to bear away to get about 45 degrees apparent. there was enough of a sea to upset the toilet again!! and between 17 and 23 knots apparent. the sail down to Ithaca was good and as the wind veered I adjusted the course. I sailed with 2 reefs in the main and 1 reef in the genny and did between 5 and 6 knots pretty much all of the way. once I got to Ithaca MollyMoo said that the anchorage they had suggested was out because of gusty winds and they were heading to Vathy. the wind in the lee of the land was dying so I shook out all the reefs and then dropped the mainsail but the wind was gone and I had to motor. Despite the engineer coming along I remain very very concerned about the oil pressure. I will keep an eye on it but it seems to be dropping below 0.5 bar at idle which is terrible. I think I need to get myself some of the thicker oil as soon as I can. I dropped the anchor at Vathy in about 7 metres. I was very close to land but would have to drag 40m to run around. the wind was basically just blowing straight in though. I think it may be a place to move on from soon
1
22.9
NM
5h 25m
Yénion to Itháki, Greece
I woke at my usual time of 6 and then dozed until 8. I knew that I was going to head for Vliho Bay today but wasn't sure which bridge opening I was going to go for. I kept looking at the weather forecasts and also feeling the breeze because I preferred the 2pm lift to the 5pm. at about 10:30 I decided there was enough breeze for me to get going so I lifted the anchor and sailed about half a mile. the wind was very light and flukey, and there were lots of boats around, so knowing that I had to motor down the channel inanycase I turned on the engine. Unlike another sailing boat that did what I thought of but rejected, I went to the last buoy and turned the engine off. it was a lovely sail but it quickly became clear that I would be way too early. I reefed athe benoanagain and again to slow myself down to arrive at about 1:45. I was listening to the bridge radio and despite the 30 odd boats waiting somewhat alarmingly I heard the operator say the next lift would be 5pm! no one seemed to take any notice and at about 1:55 boats started entering the channel. I was staying out of trouble initially just using the genoa but eventually due to increasing waves and wind and boats killing about, the engine. At 2pm nothing happened. People started radio'ing the bridge but getting no response. eventually a very stressed Greek said that he could not explain now, ten minutes. there was general consternation aboungs the boats and several went some way out to keep clear but I hoovered fairly close in. Eventually at 2:24ish the bridge opened. athere was a mad rush for the channel but some boats - in particular a blue hulled Dutch boat - just didn't get a move on. they may have had a problem but it was like the motorway opening and everyone being caught behind a car doing 25mph. An Australian big cat tried to overtake everyone He had clearly never been down the channel before and I called out that it would be very tight (ie there was no space). He backed off but then shortly afterwards in frustration at the 25mph car, be undertook at huge speed. He shouldn't be in charge of a boat really. Anyway the lack of speed caused problems because the wind was 25 knots over the deck pushing all of us on the right without any steerage into the path of the boats coming in the other direction. Eventually the Dutch boat turned off to some pontoon and once past the marina many boats including my own git their genoas out and sailed down the channel. it was a relief to turn the engine off. I had to turn the engine on for literally 2 minutes at the very end of the channel as the wind died in the narrow channel with boats in both directions, but as soon as I was clear I started sailing again. unlike the usual wind, which icomes from the canal, the wind today blew up to the canal and very softly. the most I had was about 8 knots apparent and of course I was beating into it. I kept tacking and nearly made it all the way to the entrance to Tranquil Bay but the wind dropped to 1 or 2 knots which made progress impossible. I turned the engine on with about 4.5-5 miles to go and tidied up as we motored towards the anchorage. The chicane was fairly clear today and I decided that I wanted to be close to the Vliho Yacht Club. I found a spot, and dropped the anchor. I was too close to another boat. I tried again in the same spot, and I was too close to another boat. partly this is because Naxos takes her time weather cocking if there is no wind I think. I found a second spot for a third attempt, and again I was too close, essentially rather than falling back in line, I was falling back towards other boats. this might be ok but I would have to wait for the boat to settle before I knew. I have up in the idea of being close to the yacht club and found a huge space. this time the anchor did set - even though I was briefly worried about being too close to a gilet style boat - and trying not to rush I gave it the beans and she didn't move. I turned off the instrumental sat down for a few moments and talked to Nous, and then set the snubber. Another sail done
1
26.1
NM
9h 51m
Préveza to Yénion, Greece