Claire Cummings

On entering the fjord we were very blessed to see beautiful humpback whales. Two came close to the boat and treated us to a wonderful soul-touching show of bubble rings and synchronised diving. Skipper Ales has done this voyage 20 times and this is the first time the whales came close by Global Surveyor.

Back to Kulusuk to catch our flight back to Iceland. This time I got to helm through the ice - what a great learning experience. And amazing to reflect that what took us 3 days to sail only took just over an hour by plane!

Dropped two crew members at Kulusuk and as we motored to Tasilaq, saw a good chunk break off an ice berg - such sheer power. And seals were popping their heads up here and there as we crossed the sea.

Made it through! Anchored at the eerily complete abandoned WW2 US air base - even saw a mop. And went on to the breathtaking glacier snout where my much braver crew mate swam in the icy sea. She said it was really invigorating. Then a long steer back through ice for Skipper Ales.

Forced to turn back by ice. One of the crew caught a huge cod and we BBQed it by a trapper’s hut after backtracking to a smaller, relatively ice-free fjord.

A very cold morning! 6 layers of clothing just about did it after scoffing lots of pancakes for breakfast. More ice - slow going at times. Went ashore to have a traditional meal in the evening.

Aboard Global Surveyor, a wonderful 70’ tall ship. Rough conditions overnight from Iceland but the seas became calm once in the East Greenland current. Ice bound at night and had to stop. My watch mate saw a polar bear in the distance!

Seals! On Hayling Island. A lovely sail up the Solent with a mixed deaf / hearing crew and communication was smooth!