Claire Cummings

We started off on sails but at around noon had to switch to the engine. The scenic anchorage at Eigg was a great lunch spot and on the way to Mull we were treated to the sight of porpoises and guillemots whilst steering away from fish farms, lobster and crab nets and pots.

Low winds and ripply sea, a total contrast to yesterday. Relaxing - time to recover from yesterday 😂

Left Tobermory in gorgeous fair conditions and a lovely F4 wind. As we got into open water, the wind picked up and the water got choppy - proper sailing. My first time climbing the mast to bring down the mainsail in those conditions! Moored at a buoy in Canna Harbour - beautiful! Saw grey seals, puffins and oyster catchers. Got a tender to the island and enjoyed the local brew in the sun.

Great wind most of the way, though it dropped for the last 5 miles or so. As we rounded towards Tobermory the bright colours leaped out, even brighter than expected. Gorgeous.

On entering the fjord we were very blessed to see beautiful humpback whales. Two came close to the boat and treated us to a wonderful soul-touching show of bubble rings and synchronised diving. Skipper Ales has done this voyage 20 times and this is the first time the whales came close by Global Surveyor.

Back to Kulusuk to catch our flight back to Iceland. This time I got to helm through the ice - what a great learning experience. And amazing to reflect that what took us 3 days to sail only took just over an hour by plane!

Dropped two crew members at Kulusuk and as we motored to Tasilaq, saw a good chunk break off an ice berg - such sheer power. And seals were popping their heads up here and there as we crossed the sea.

Made it through! Anchored at the eerily complete abandoned WW2 US air base - even saw a mop. And went on to the breathtaking glacier snout where my much braver crew mate swam in the icy sea. She said it was really invigorating. Then a long steer back through ice for Skipper Ales.

Forced to turn back by ice. One of the crew caught a huge cod and we BBQed it by a trapper’s hut after backtracking to a smaller, relatively ice-free fjord.