Irish Goodbye

Departed Hot Springs to drop Charley in Tofino to catch his flight. Bon voyage Charley! Thanks for getting me safely around the Capes. We planned the ride well into Tofino as far as entering from seaward to catch the push but we couldn’t time arrival for slack water. A LOT of current in Tofino. And rocks and other obstacles near town. No dock space and I was going to spend the night so we anchored around the corner past the resort which worked out well. Dinghied into town against the current which was a good test for the electric outboard. Coastal Rides is the “Uber” in this part of the world. Worked well. 

Another great day. Got some downwind sailing in with just the jib poles out and Genoa, no main for a while. Practiced rigging the preventer on the main. Less fog. Watched the Canadian Coast guard air lift what we think were construction supplies to a light house. The hot springs were incredible! Almost a mile of wooden boardwalk and then the springs. Very hot like a hot tub and the scenery was just amazing. We had it all to ourselves. Very nice anchorage as well. 

Friendly Cove to Hot Springs Cove

General pattern has been morning (and sometimes afternoon) fog and a bit chilly. We’ve been surprised at how little wind we’ve had. Doesn’t even really fill in in the afternoons as advertised. But amazing scenery and friendly people. We were going to stop at Queen’s Cove but decided to continue to Friendly to make tomorrow’s trip to hot springs shorter. Learned about the Nootka chief Maquinna and the influence of Spanish and British fur traders. Captain Cook met with Maquinna at Friendly Cove and that’s how it got that name. We continue to eat well between scratch cooking and heating up frozen meals I prepared before the trip. Charley holds the backgammon crown. 

Walter’s Cove to Friendly Cove

Around Brook’s Peninsula with enough wind for some sailing! Fog lifted finally. But settled back in to make the approach to Walter’s challenging. Watch the channel markers! Once in a quiet bay with a nice dock and small community. Also the last working pay phone in the world. 

Klaskish to Walter’s Cove

Sea Otter Cove is very shallow in spots. I wouldn’t be comfortable moving around in there without at least 6’ of tide. Once on the hurricane mooring ball it’s great-well protected and scenic. We had benign conditions but quite foggy. Thank you radar. Klaskish is another great anchorage, the narrow entrance is very cool, and deep, without obstacles. We had the whole place to ourselves again. Great meal!

Sea Otter Cove to Klaskish

Charley did planes, trains, boats and automobiles (well most of those) to join me in Port Hardy. We checked out Filomi Days, but unfortunately he missed the home made boat race in the afternoon. We had an incredible dinner at Ha’Me’ restaurant, can’t believe I didn’t take pictures. The venison as great. After discussing plans we decided to try and make it from Port Hardy, across Nahwhitti Bar and around Cape Scott all in one go which meant a 2 am departure from PH. Smooth departure other than the talkative local constable. 
Plan went absolutely perfectly! The night time glowing dolphins on the way to the Bar were incredible. We took the inside route around Nahwhitti Bar which was no big deal. Hit Cape Scott close to slack as planned. Weee surprised by how little wind and swell we had all day and especially at the Cape. 
Sea Otter Cove was a little nerve wracking getting in with how shallow it was. Would have provably touched bottom if not for the 7+ feet of tide. Once in it was a great anchorage with massive balls (hurricane mooring balls). Other than a brief visit from a fishing boat we had it to ourselves. Great start to the West Coast! 

Port Hardy to Sea Otter Cove

This is getting easy (don’t get cocky!) morning run to Port Hardy town dock. And Filomi Days (fishing, logging, mining)in Port Hardy! Live music and funny locals. Good stuff. Plenty of time to freshen the boat before Charley’s arrival tomorrow.

Port McNeill to Port Hardy

Success! Wind against current counts more than just the current. Left early supposedly into the current but with little to no wind. Hugged the north shore of the Strait and made good time in very benign conditions. Forecast was for strong winds but there were none. Realized I had a good window and ran all the way to Port McNeill. Celebrated with clean laundry and a shore side meal. Met Rhett at the pub who gave me some fishing pointers. Back on schedule. 

Port Neville to Port McNeill

Let’s just say I won’t miss Johnstone Strait. Departed after a nap to catch the current. Very strong wind against current (20+ knots) made it miserable and a bit scary. Occasionally the wind would catch the bow and push the boat broadside to the short steep waves and I’d lose rudder control. Almost lost the kayak off the bow rack with the wind. Wasn’t planning on these conditions until Cape Scott. Made terrible headway and realized I needed to bail out. Angled across the swell to duck into Port Neville anchorage. Happy hour came early that day. Battened down the hatches and got all loose gear and the kayak below decks. Anchor snubber chafed through swinging back and forth in the wind but the anchor didn’t budge. Developing a new found respect for how tough this big girl is. Did research on the way the current works in the Strait and wind vs current so decided I’d leave early the next morning current be damned. Was getting worried about making my timeline to meet Charley in Port Hardy. 

Billy Goat Bay to Port Neville

Short stop in Browns Bay Marina waiting for the current to go with me up Discovery Passage. First night solo! Figured out all of the lighting (red compass lights go on with running lights). Ghosted off the dock solo about 11 pm. A little nerve wracking but went well. Sprang the bow off. Was supposed to have 3+ knots of current with me up the passage but the wind against made it very rough most of the time. Dodged a few tugs with barges. Overall timing worked well to duck into Billy Goat Bay for a quick nap at dawn waiting for the current again. Nice little spot but wouldn’t want to be there with wind. Think the bottom is rocky, could feel the anchor skipping at first. 

Christian McLaughlin