Barry Cundy

After a great couple of days in Cherbourg looking around the submarine and visiting the departure hall for the liners (built for the Titanic’s departure) it was time to cross the oggin … the wind was due to drop considerably today and with an ENE forecast we’d get a good beam reach all he way to Portland. Last night we did the French customs thingy and got our departure stamp in the passports. 8am and we were out of there. Definitely a bit more wind than forecast and with it … a much bigger sea. …. And very heavy rain …. and some distinctly large greenies filling the cockpit. By the time Portland was in sight, the wind had dropped, the sea had settled to a large extent and the sun had cast a much better light on things. Tied up back in our berth and a Chinese meal ordered … and me with a coffee in hand - all’s right with the world. It’s been a great summer, but time to get back to being land-lubbers

What a cracking sail!!!! Don’t often get such a brilliant opportunity to be hard on the wind making 10 + kts with every tack being a winner. Sadly, two miles out we lost tide and wind and had to complete with the engine on. Of note - Alderbaran came through the race as we crossed from Alderney to France, hugged the coast and arrived in Cherbourg minutes few before us … good to see him safe and sound. Now safely on Q pontoon. The weather is the best it’s been for weeks, glorious sunshine.

Time to depart Lezardrieux. Forecast says the 5m swell and 30kt winds have gone away. Leaving at high slack water at just before 8am we headed down river What a revolting journey … the saving grace was that there was a good sailing wind which took us most of the way to Guernsey arriving at the same time as Alderbaran who left Lezardrieux just an hour before us this morning. He was also popping in to Guernsey for fuel before heading to Cherbourg to check out. We both waited on the local pontoon for half an hour until there was enough water at the fuel pontoon. We knew when the tide was right as the beautiful schooner lying in its side in the shallows near the pontoon popped upright and sailed away …… We decided to carry on to Alderney, Alderbaran (single handed) had had enough and was planning to drop anchor just outside the harbour and then do the Alderney leg tomorrow. A much calmer sea for the passage through little Russell and on to Alderney with a cracking 12kt through the race … glad to be in the harbour and pick up the buoy, a long day, but the moving tent has definitely been pitched a day’s march nearer home!

After a fantastic week in Trebuerden spent walking many (many) miles of the Cote de Granite Rose it was time to set off again eastwards. There is enough water over the cill about half way through the tide and we needed to depart as soon as possible to make the most of the remaining east going tide … so an early -ish start. Not much wind, but enough to give an extra kt and along with assistance from the tide we were trucking along, at times reaching 9kt over the ground and so we’re able to keep the tide with us until entering the river to Lezardrieux at fairly slack high water. Interestingly there were a few boats ahead of us who took the shorter inner passage. They arrived quite a while after us … so staying out from the coast in the faster tidal stream was the best option. We passed a few “worse for wear” cardinals along the way. Entry to the river is well marked and the passage up to Lezardrieux is reminiscent of passing up to Dittisham on the Dart. Lezardrieux Marina (and village!) are clearly shutting down for the winter! The Marina has recently been extended (courtesy of the off-shore wind farm industry). No one to greet us or allocate berths so we attempted the visitors berths as described in the almanac … two futile attempts in the only spaces available - far too narrow. Attempt three was in the extension next to a visiting Swedish boat ‘Cool’. Perfect. We will sit out the forecast southerly gale for a couple of days (and recover from last night’s excesses!!)

So … not too early a start as the ideal time to enter Trebuerden is around high tide. It was a fairly unremarkable drive west on a massive slow rolling sea with a mirror-glass finish. By the time we approached Ile de Batz the motor sailing became more enjoyable and with a tide firmly in our favour there was the occasional 8kts of joy. As we entered the fairly narrow channel through the rocks outside Trebuerden the sea seemed full of boats of all shapes and sizes. Once through the entrance “gate” visitors’ pontoon G is straight ahead - clearly labelled under 12 m one side, over 12m the other. Plenty spaces … pick your own. The place is beautiful. A little seaside town completely surrounded by the infamous pink granite - which is spectacular. Looking forward to some great walks … … and the reason for the photo of the Brittany ferry … that was daughter and partner passing us on their way home … Update: it’s full today! Looks like a local yacht club has a muster here - when the gate opened they all rushed in and Pontoon G is suddenly full!

Lovely peaceful fog-bound evening … when just for a moment the fog lifted and we could clearly see the two boat anchored off our port side and the lights from the military peninsular of Ile Longue. This morning at 7 the skipper said we could crack on … at 8.30, as we upped anchor, we really wondered if we were making the right decision … it was a real pea-souper! On the proviso we could call it a day and retire if necessary we set off. By the time we were north of Cameret, visibility had eased and as we passed the point into the Chanel du Conquet there was even a trace of blue in the sky. Not an exhilarating ride through the Chanel du Four as we were passing soon after slack … but we made about 8ish over the ground. Sloppy nasty sea as we turned NW and we were fairly grateful to turn into L’Aber Wrac’h with a determination to anchor. Option one, outside… not sure … so went inside to look at option two. 🤔. So back out to option one (where the chap who flew his spinney-see photo- through the Chanel had just dropped anchor … so we did too … it was a bit lumpy and then a fishing boat passed … it was a lot lumpy. I think not!!!! Up anchor and away, and now on a buoy just up river from the Marina. And very lovely it is too.

Two nights at anchor in splendid isolation (see photograph). A word of warning about Brittany in August - expect crowds, difficulty finding anchorages etc etc!!!! 🤣🤣🤣 An early start as they sounded reveille at the Naval school at 7am. Grey, overcast and mizzly, but we needed to get nearer to the Chanel du Four and we’ve the tide to think about coming past the end of the Roscavel peninsular filling the Rade du Brest. The tide runs out only for 4 hours … So, under engine for a couple of hours to Roscavel to be in position to shoot around this afternoon and overnight at Cameret. Plan A. Plan B - it’s nice here … and it’s another 2 hrs to Cameret - in the drizzle and fog. Out with the tide charts. If we stay here overnight it will only take us 1/2 an hour more to get to Point St Matthieu than setting off from Cameret and the tide leaving the Rade is also on our side in the morning. No brainer - bridle on and chuck out a bit more chain! Set the alarm for 7 (just imagine the sound of reveille, if that helps!)

A couple of interesting days in the Moulin Blanc Marina … a visit to the city via the no3 bus, tram and 🚠 over to the Ateliers du Capuchins where a visit to ocean 70.8 is an absolute must with many “who knew” moments - and the most odd burrito ever; a really don’t bother visit to OceanOpolis; some slightly strange meals out at the local restaurants- where they really take not making too much of an effort to a very high level. - along with a constant battle to keep the 🐕s and 🐈 away from the boat and eyes pealed for pontoon pressies. This morning mr C was apologised to profusely by the Marina staff as he paid the bill. The offending boat occupants were out with shovels, buckets and hoses cleaning the whole of the north pontoon as we departed. So - not far, just around the corner a cracking sail . Dropped the anchor, lunched, snoozed and then hopped over to the south side to anchor for the evening. All I can hear as I write and toast the world with a beer is …. Absolutely nothing other than the odd gust of wind and the occasional soft lap of a tiny wave. Awesome!!!!!

Had a great day exploring Loctudy and Ile Tudy yesterday. This morning we dropped our lines just before 9am to head a little nearer home. I have to report a foul Biscay swell and a wind (only a little bit!) not coming from the advertised direction. And to add insult to injury - rain. There was a good two metre confused sea and progress was somewhat impeded. As we approached the Raz around 3pm it was clear Mrs C would not be particularly on board with that part of the journey, so I retired below and closed my eyes. The skipper reported an exhilarating rodeo-ride with a good 10kts over the ground. As we turned into the Rade de Brest, conditions improved and I made my way back to the cockpit. A glorious evening and spectacular scenery, loads of places to anchor - but we are getting out of the way of an incoming blow, so a marina for us on this occasion. Marina of choice, Castle; and at 6:38 - they told us they were full, and us all fully fendered up and ready to go! Swift call to Moulin Blanc … who could offer us a place on the outer wave break - so at 7:15 - that’s where we found ourselves - on the corner of the pontoon next to the neighbourhood dog toilet … splendid! We will move tomorrow …. Addendum: no point in moving … the neighbourhood dog toilet is extensive! We’ve done the very British thing and cleaned our personal space; sitting in the cockpit (once the rain passes) will be more pleasant. Also need to deter the neighbourhood cats coming aboard at night … what a mess in the galley this morning!

Well, after a lovely day in Glenan … Saturday night turned to a right heap of horse manure. Loathsome swell, and the (unforecast) thunder, lighting and biblical deluge. So, early Sunday morning we got the fudge out of Rodge. It wasn’t pretty, but we arrived at Loctudy. … a bit like arriving at Loctudy five years ago after crossing Biscay. Darn grateful to be there.