Gary O’Grady

The ARC departure gets ever closer. This trip was timed to arrive just after the ARC+ fleet departed for Cape Verde. After making over 7 knots consistently after departure we had to slow her down or have to circle aimlessly outside Las Palmas port for some hours. The anchorages were full to bursting and getting in to the marina before ARC+ departure would most likely have resulted in a rotten berth. Luckily the wind reduced quite a bit so we just drifted through the night. The moon was bright giving very good visibility. The TSS between Gran Canaria and Fuertaventura was particularly busy. When passed it a couple of years there wasn’t a vessel to be seen. Once at the port the marina called us straight in and sorted a perfect berth quickly and efficiently. The staff here I’ve found to be very helpful. So Sunday week (24th) at 13:00 we’ll make our way to St. Lucia but being, I think, the slowest vessel of the whole fleet we’ll be last home.

Had a tricky departure from my berth with a crosswind that refused to allow me to turn my boat which meant I had to do a 100 point turn and had to leave the pontoon backwards all the way round the fairway. Thankfully didn’t hit anything. Had a little wind outside the harbour which only gave me a speed of about 3 knots but when it died I was making less that 2 knots so engine on. The bottom clearly needs a clean off but so late in the season I’ll not bother til antifoul time. I can see the start line for tomorrow’s WOA Nab Tower race so that saves a 3 hour trip tomorrow morning. I’m committee boat. Looking forward to a breakfast of bacon sandwiches.

280 miles of a wind speed and direction being the same for the entire trip was unbelievable. It made for some quick sailing but the swell also on the beam made life on board very precarious having to plan and think through every step and movement. I’d like to go back to Madeira at some point and spend some more time there. Shame it seems to be just off the Atlantic circuit. Here’s a great coincidence. I read Ann Davison’s book ‘My Ship is so Small’ on the way to Madeira which recounts her solo Atlantic crossing (in a 25’ boat) which was the first solo ocean crossing by a woman. Such a brave lady which I have such admiration for. Anyway I’ve just started reading Sir Francis Chichesters book ‘Gypsy Moth Circles the World’ in which he states that he also read Ann Davisons book on the way to Madeira!! Also we both spent some time (me and Sir Francis) thinking about how to pass the Madeira group. He went through the middle of Madeira and Porto Santo whereas I went east of Porto Santo and totally unplanned by me picked up some great katabatic blasts from the eastern heights which gave a burst of speed. Sir Francis got light winds between the islands. The true answer however is to pass west of the group if you are not planning to stop there. I was bound for Funchal so couldn’t take this route. So now in Lanzarote where Cara will wait patiently for her first Atlantic crossing.

This was the Jester Challenge to the Azores but whilst not an official entrant due to boat size I was stalking the event and met up with all the Jesters. I’ve completed 2 previous Jesters in Katy. It was also great meeting Pete Goss one of the real hard core ultimate solo sailors. It was a perfect start and Cara sailed beautifully. Not the ideal wind direction but when is it ever. Once I got round the Finistere TSZ Cara had water coming over the sole boards and the heads were flooded. The Atlantic coming on aboard as an uninvited guest is always a time for reflection and mild panic. I pumped everything out but there was still an ingress of water. Realistically I could have continued and kept pumping periodically but I didn’t want to take the risk so opted for a return to the UK and if it got really bad go in to France. I’m now reporting from the Shipwrights Arms in Helford which is a far more convivial location for dealing with a leaky boat than the North Atlantic. The Azores will still be there for another day.