Vitória to Rio de Janeiro: Sailing the Brazilian Coast

Cami De Conto

Our stay in Vitoria was short but very useful. We did some well needed groceries, fuelled up (which was our main concern since there was no fuel dock in Peninsula de Maraú and we had done over 60h of engine to get to Vitoria), and we caught up with our friend Renato. Renato is a sailor that we met in Curacao when he was sailing around the world. He has just completed his circumnavigation and it was amazing that this time we could visit him at his hometown while we are sailing around the world :) We left Vitoria just before sunset. The destination? We aren’t sure yet. It could be Búzios or it could be Rio de Janeiro. The sailing and the forecast will tell. We just have to arrive somewhere within 48h, and be safely anchored before a cold front arrives. At first, we were sailing downwind with 5kts of wind, making 3kts of boat speed and wobbling around at the waves. That’s ok, with this speed we can cover the 170miles to Búzios in time. But the captain doesn’t like to go so slow. Coastal sailing can be challenging because the wind not always blows according to the forecast: there’s always some influence from the land. We were in an almost no wind zone 5nm away from the coast. We changed strategy and went 30nm off the coast and voilà! We found wind! The new avg boat speed was 7,5kts with 12kts of wind. Waaahooo! We likely also found a nice current to take us along. So the fist night was great, fast and smooth. At last, we were sailing again :) The perfect sailing conditions lasted for about 15h and then we were in a no wind zone again. So, the second day and night was under engine. By the moment we turned on the engine we have decided that we were going straight into Rio, as we have made an incredible good progress up to that moment. This whole trip we were sailing in quite shallow waters. We were about 30nm away from the coast and the depth was around 30m, with a sandy bottom. It was a bit crazy to be sailing offshore with light green ocean. It was only missing the dolphins. Instead of dolphins, we saw many oil rigs, platforms, tankers, towing boats, helicopters, cargos… it was busier than Gibraltar strait!!! We sailed along the Brazilian oil field. Although it sounds stressful, it was actually very easy. No fishing activity there, no buoys to worry about, and everything and everyone were on AIS. I wish it was always like that 😁 The third and last day was still under engine, as there was absolutely no wind. Approaching Rio made the time slowdown.. we were tired and we knew this was our last long stretch sailing alone with Christopher for a while, so it felt like we were never arriving. We just wanted to sleep and rest. The sea was so flat, that had that honey creamy appearance, and that was the moment that I spotted a whale 😍 I think 80% of the times that I saw whales, the sea was like that. Is that a coincidence or it is a condition? 🤷🏼‍♀️ Arriving in Rio, the wind picked up and we entered Baía de Guanabara sailing with Genoa and Mizzen, making 7,5kts boat speed and heeling under the Christ! What a moment! After 2 months of anchoring, river and off-grid living, it is time to go back to civilisation! Rio de Janeiro, we are ready for you! 🍻